Vitamin C, Retinol and AHA: My Powerful Anti-Aging Skincare Routine

Entering Your ‘Fine-Wine Era’

Once you enter your 30s or 40s, you may suddenly find that the skincare routine that worked in your 20s just isn’t cutting it anymore. Fine lines are starting to show up, dark spots are more noticeable. And that youthful glow? It seems like it’s taken an extended vacation. But don’t worry—I’ve gathered the research on how to treat, nourish, and pamper your skin as you transition into your “fine wine” era. And I’ve tested all of the recommendations on my own 36-year old skin to confirm they work. Let’s dive into the essentials.

This post is generously sponsored by BeautySense.ca

The Power of Vitamin C: Fading Dark Spots Like a Pro

First off, let’s clear up a common misconception: the most noticeable sign of aging isn’t actually wrinkles; it’s skin discoloration. Yes, those pesky dark spots are one of the first things our eyes notice that indicate a person’s age. Though oddly, they still fly under the radar as a top concern to address with skin aging. Enter Vitamin C, the skin-brightening superstar. Once I finally began regularly incorporating a vitamin C, both morning and night, my sun spots faded dramatically. I even get unsolicited praise from other about how “clear” and “young” my skin looks. (Trust me: my skin was not great in my teens and 20s. And I didn’t wear sunscreen regularly back then either. I know… I know. It’s a skincare sin. And now I’m paying for it.)

Vitamin C is not only a powerhouse for targeting discoloration but also a potent antioxidant that helps protect your skin from environmental stressors. Use it daily, and over time, you’ll notice a more even and radiant complexion.

When it comes to Vitamin C serums, you need to find the right type, strength and consistency routine.

Stating the (Hopefully) Obvious…

The ingredients in this article will increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. You must wear SPF daily if you plan to incorporate vitamin c, retinol, or AHA into your routine.

Deep Dive 1:

Types of Cosmetic Vitamin C

If anti-aging wasn’t confusing enough, there’s also various type of vitamin c available. L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), Ascorbyl Palmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate all have varying stability, absorbency, and potency.

L-Ascorbic Acid is often cited as the most effective, though it can also be the most harsh. Those with super sensitive skin should start with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (AKA: Vitamin C ester) or any of the other ester options.

If you’re just starting with vitamin c, use a gentler formulation. Like the refillable Active Hydration serum by Activist Skincare or the Three Ships Dew Drops serum. But if you’re ready to try a potent vitamin c with quicker results, read on…

Deep Dive 2:

What’s the most effective cruelty free, Vegan Vitamin c?

For years, there’s been much hype over this SkinCeuticals serum. But here’s my catch—they sell in China. Meaning SkinCeuticals is not technically cruelty free.

Q: So is there a cruelty-free alternative to SkinCeuticals’ C E Ferulic Serum?

A: Yes, there is! Let me introduce you to an equally effective, cruelty-free vitamin C + E serum: Eminence Organic Skincare’s Citrus & Kale Potent C+E Serum. This potent formula helps fade those dark spots and brightens the skin just as effectively as the competition.

Open for a quick formula comparison between Eminence and SkinCeuticals…

Eminence Citrus & Kale Potent C+E Serum: Vitamin C 16%, Vitamin E derived from avocado (% not specified)

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum: Vitamin C 15%, Vitamin E 1%

Both products use the L-Ascorbic Acid type of vitamin c. And the Eminence product has a slightly higher concentration. In short, the Eminence product can be a good alternative to the SkinCeuticals product, especially for users looking for natural, organic, clean skincare that’s also cruelty-free!

Retinol: The Gold Standard for Aging Gracefully

Ah, retinol—the holy grail of anti-aging. If you haven’t started using it yet, now’s the time. Retinol promotes collagen production and increases cell turnover, which means fewer fine lines, smoother skin, and a more evenly pigmented complexion. However, retinol can be a bit of a diva—it demands a specific approach. The key is to layer it correctly: start with a nourishing serum to create a buffer, then apply a small amount of retinol, and finish off with a moisturizer to lock in hydration.

If you’re new to retinol, start slow—once a week only at night—and gradually increase usage as your skin builds tolerance. Trust me, your future self will thank you.

Deep Dive 3:

Is Retinol Covered by Insurance?

Now, here’s a pro tip for those living in Canada: many health insurance plans cover prescription retinol. Yes, you heard that right! You could be saving some serious cash on this skincare essential.

Acids: Glycolic, Lactic, and Mandelic—Oh My!

When it comes to keeping that youthful glow, acids are your best friends. Glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids all work to encourage cell turnover, sloughing off the dead skin cells that dull your complexion and making way for fresher, younger-looking skin. They also help reduce sun spots and other signs of aging. But let’s not get carried away here—start slow if you’re new to acids,

My skin can tolerate acids incredibly well, but not everyone’s can. Introduce one acid at a time into your routine and observe how your skin reacts. If your skin starts to feel sensitive or looks irritated, it might be a sign that your skin barrier is compromised. In this case, you can use the layering method similar to the one recommended for retinol: a nourishing serum, followed by the acid, and then a moisturizer. This helps create a buffer and reduces the chances of an inflammatory reaction. Sensitive skin types, take note—this could be your game-changer.

Deep Dive 4:

How do I pick the Right aha for me?

While all three acids mentioned above are types of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), Glycolic acid is the most potent (ie: effective) and Mandelic is the most gentle. If you want to truly turn back the clock, glycolic acid is the most effective. Especially when paired with vitamin c. Lately I’ve been enjoying the noticeable skin brightening of the professional-grade Glyconight 10% Masque by YonKa Paris. I use it twice a week on nights when I’m not applying a retinol.

Body Skincare: It’s Not Just About the Face

News flash: your face isn’t the only part of your skin that ages. Your body needs some love too! As we age, our skin tends to become drier and loses its elasticity, so it’s essential to incorporate ultra-moisturizing formulas into your routine.

Deep Dive 5:

What Body Cream Formulas Actually Delivers Anti-Aging Results?

Look for formulas with shea butter, Marshmallow Root Extract, Argan and Jojoba Oils for reliable hydration. Bonus points if they also include some of the anti-aging ingredients we’ve discussed, like Vitamin C or AHAs.

For an ultra-boost: first exfoliate, then apply the body cream immediately after bathing to towel-dried skin to allow for deeper penetration, and follow with a layer of body oil. Your skin will drink it up, and you’ll be left with soft, velvety, plumped and nourished skin that doesn’t give away your age.

Let’s get TMI for a second—after pregnancy, the skin on the lower half of my body became incredibly dry. We’re talking Sahara Desert levels of dryness here, with dark, rough patches on my knees and ankles from layers of moisture-lacking skin building up that I just couldn’t slough off or moisturize away. “What are those bruises on your knees?” became a common question whenever I wore shorts.

Thankfully I did find a solution to my oddly dry legs that also addressed a few other signs of aging: Eminence’s Monoi Age Corrective Body Cream. This rich, hydrating cream has been a game-changer for my ultra-dry legs and other skin aging signs. As a green beauty blogger, I’ve tried close to 100 different body lotions, serums, and creams over the years. This formula is different: it actually works. The texture is a little unique, since it looks like a gel but spreads like whipped cream. Yet it also doesn’t leave a trace of greasiness, oil, or even a sheen—which I found surprising. It seeps into the skin instantly and is almost undetectable to the eye. But you can FEEL the difference instantly.

Do you recall the smooth, supple, bouncy skin of your teenage years? I know I do. And my skin is getting closer and closer to that state each time I do a thorough application of this Age Corrective body cream. I can’t stop touching my legs now! And those dark patches are gradually becoming lighter and much softer.

Other Uses:

Eminence’s Monoi Age Corrective Body Cream has also been jaw-droppingly effective on my Eczema, sunburns, and crepey neck skin! (Sure, at 36, the creepiness is only just bringing, but it’s noticeable to me.) I only need a small dab in the evening and my throat looks great by the morning. I highly recommend massaging it across the chest and decolletage if you experience crease lines in this region too.

Eczema flare up have gotten worse for me with age. While on vacation, my toddler was constantly in the pool. I was wary of the chlorine but what can you do? In the areas where I diligently applied the Monoi Age Corrective Body Cream, no eczema developed! In the spots I missed, I had gnarly flare ups.

On the same vacation, despite my best efforts, I did develop a slight sun burn. This lotion calmed it within hours!

Needless to say, I will be gifting this body cream regularly now that I know how effective it is!

The Bottom Line…

After testing hundreds of products over the years, I’ve seen firsthand that you often get quicker results when you invest in fewer products with higher quality formulas.

For those looking to take skin aging seriously, you’ll want to include a few professional-grade skincare products in your routine. Eminence Organic Skincare is a brand that I’ve come to respect and use regularly in my 30s. Still, their products can be difficult to track down since it’s used by professionals! BeautySense.ca carries a range of spa-quality beauty brands, from cult favourites to professional niche brands that you won’t find elsewhere—like Eminence and Yonka Paris. In the past, I had to buy these products in-person from spas or professional industry events. But now I can have them shipped directly to me.

If you live in Canada and haven’t heard of BeautySense.ca, then I’d like to put it on your radar. They carry many of my favourite luxury brands. Each order includes perks like free shipping, rewards points, and generous samples.

Your 30s and 40s are the perfect time to rethink and upgrade your skincare routine. Incorporate powerful ingredients like Vitamin C, retinol, and acids. Just be mindful of how your skin responds. And don’t forget—body skincare is just as important as facial care. Take a little extra time to treat and nourish your skin. If you make it into a little self care ritual, not only will you your skin look fabulous but you’ll feel it too.

So go ahead, treat your skin like the royalty it is. After all, it’s been working hard for you for decades. It deserves a little pampering, don’t you think?

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